Diario de una Couturier

 
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Preparing the new fall-winter collection.

In a month I will finish the new Fall Winter collection and it will be my first collection as a professional. In this moment I am feeling excited, nervous and a little scared at the same time.

Right now I am still working hard and I am looking forward to show you all the clothes I have created very soon.

Vintage patterns

Normal people go to the flea markets to buy antique furniture, vintage books or clothes … I go there to buy old patterns. Often I do not use them for anything but they are so inspiring that I can not stop buying them.

Also, as my collection grows, I discover the fashion secrets of the 60′s, the shapes of the 70′s and I’m falling for the 80′s patterns (which I believed  impossible).

Although I would love to visit some Parisian flea market to find some french patterns from the 60′s.

Audrey Hepburn and Hubert de Givenchy

Audrey Hepburn had a somewhat hectic love life, married twice, had long relationships with some of the leading men of her time and even jilted a millionaire within a few days of marriage. But it was a faithful friend of her friends.

Hubert de Givenchy was one of these great friends. The designer was commissioned to dress the actress in all her great movies, thanks to him we have some of the scenes that marked the twentieth century cinema and their friendship lasted until the death of the actress.

The relationship between them was so intense that their working collaborations became art. Nobody dress like Audrey the creations that Givenchy designed and nobody as Givenchy understood the Audrey’s  simple elegance.

In this post I show some pictures of the actress fittings in the Givenchy maison.

How to sew a summer skirt?

Summer it is almost here and we are looking forward to dress new, beautiful, cool and comfortable clothes. In this tutorial I want to show you how to create a simply skirt.

To create this skirt we need the following materials: scissors, needles, a needle pin, a headband and five feet of the fabric we have chosen.

Then take the following measures: the long skirt that we want (in my case 54cm) and width of our waist (in my case 66cm). Then cut off the fabric as a rectangle measuring the lenght that you have chosen (in my case 54cm long) keeping in mind we are going to lose about 8 cm for the seams) by the double size of your waist less 10cm (in my case by 122cm).

Before starting to sew we will cut the elastic band to fit exactlye your waist size (I recommend that the length of the elastic band would be about 4 cm shorter than  your real waist that fits securely to your body).

We will begin by folding the skirt in half and sew the open edge forming a tight orbit. Remember to leave 1.5 cm seam allowance and end with a zigzag stitch.

Now that we have created a circular tube with the fabric we will take one edge and make a 4cm hem.

At the other edge, which corresponds to the waist, we should create a hem of about 4cm too and sew around leaving a 5cm opening so we can pass the elastic band.

Then we will pass the elastic waist and it will go through within the waist hem until it has done a full circle.

We will sew the two ends of the elastic band with a zigzag stitch. 

finally we will close the waist hem.


And our skirt will be ready for summer.

Diario de una Couturier Spring Summer 2013 Collection

I show you a small sample of the collection that I have created for this season. This time I handmade with lots of love a few items. As all my collections the clothes are very romantic and feminine. 

tip: how to treat fabrics before cutting and sewing

Select the fabrics that we will use for our sewing projects is one of the funniest parts of the whole process. It stirs the imagination and as we learn how to combine colors we have more and more fun. But before we start cutting the tissues we have to wash and iron them.

Just after buy the fabrics, they  must be washed. Some fabrics are machine washable (most of the cottons for example) and others have to be handwashed (for example if they are delicate fabrics).

Also after washing the fabrics, they should be ironed properly, so we can not cut a pattern on a fabric if this has not been pressed.

Normally when we buy new fabrics we eager to start using them but these two prior simple steps are really important so that our sewing projects will look better.

Stripes for summer

There are key trends that are always a must like stripes. I just love them…

Entering my 30′s

This week I celebrated my 30th birthday (already sounds a little scary). But far from any crisis, in my opinion the best is yet to come, I got excited thinking on the new challenges this new decade will bring to me.

To celebrate my birthday I made me some little presents as go to eat a delicious cupcake in this cafe in Berlin.

How to sew pockets on a skirt or on a pants

Sometimes we want to add some pockets to a skirt or pants. To learn how to do it correctly I wrote this tutorial that I hope it will be useful for all of you.

First of all we need to check the materials we need to add pockets: a piece of cloth of the same material or type with which we will create the skirt or thepants, making paper patterns, pins, thread and a ruler.

First of all, we will create a pattern for the pockets shape and we will cut four pieces with it.

It is very important that before sewing the sides of the skirt or the pants we will sew the pockets.

Then we will post the right side of the pockets fabric above the skirt or the pants on the heigh we want. We have to remember that always the right side of the fabric has to face the right side of the fabric as the picture above.

We will sew (leaving a seam allowance of 1.5 cm) seam side of the fabric to hold pocket with skirt or pants and we will repeat with the rest of pockets sides.

Then we will unite the pockets front side with the pockets back side.

To join them sew the sides of the skirt or the pants (leaving a seam allowance of 1.5 cm) but in the pockets, instead of following the straight stitch, sew following the oval pockets side.

Kinfolk Magazine in Berlin

Last week I found Kinfolk magazine in a small library called Do You Read Me in Berlin and I bought it. It was the first time I was buying the magazine and I just love it. The content, the styling and the images are so simple as elegant.

I am looking forward to check the spring issue.

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